Chasing Azulejos: Portugal’s Tiles, Told and Traveled

Imagine strolling through a sunlit Lisbon alley, walls alive with intricate blue-and-white patterns telling stories of voyages and saints. These are Portugal’s beloved azulejos – the glazed ceramic tiles that adorn everything from grand cathedrals to humble tavern walls.

In this travelogue, we delve into the history of azulejos (including how the Azores and Madeira islands carry on this tradition), reveal tips for capturing their beauty on camera, and map out where to find the most spectacular tiles on your Portuguese adventure.

Get ready for a storytelling journey as vibrant as the tiles themselves.

The Storied History of Portugal’s Azulejos

It all began centuries ago with a swirl of cultural influences. The very word azulejo hints at its origins – derived from Arabic (possibly az-zulayj, “polished stone,” or al zulecha, “baked clay” , a legacy of the Moorish artisans who introduced their dazzling tiles to Iberia in medieval times.

The Moors blanketed walls with geometric patterns in a style known as horror vacui (fear of empty spaces), a tradition the Portuguese eagerly adopted. One oft-told tale credits Portugal’s tile obsession to King Manuel I. Around the early 1500s, after witnessing the breathtaking Moorish tiles of Seville and Granada, Manuel I brought the art home. He famously decorated the Sintra National Palace with imported tiles, igniting Portugal’s passion for azulejos.

Early designs mirrored the Islamic aesthetic: simple cobalt-blue geometrics on white. But Portuguese artisans soon pushed the craft further. They added lush colors and began painting narrative scenes: hunting feasts, sea battles, religious epics – entire stories unfolding across ceramic panels.

By the 17th and 18th centuries (the Age of Discoveries), azulejos were a national art form, their style influenced by the era’s global links. The Dutch Delftware and Chinese porcelain craze left a mark: Portuguese tiles embraced the iconic blue-and-white palette as a symbol of wealth and power.

Walk into any Baroque-era church and you might find biblical sagas rendered in blue azulejo panels lining the nave. These served a practical purpose too – teaching the masses. In times when many couldn’t read, churches used vivid tile murals to narrate saints’ lives and moral tales in pictorial form.

In Porto’s gorgeous Igreja do Carmo, for example, an entire side facade is a giant comic strip of religious history in azulejo form, meant to inspire and educate.

Azulejos proved as useful as they were beautiful. Homeowners soon noticed tiled interiors stayed cooler in summer and the tiles protected walls from damp and heat. By the 19th century, tiles leapt from church and palace interiors to the exteriors of everyday buildings.

Suddenly ordinary city facades became open-air galleries. Azulejos transformed into a form of public art – and early climate control, coating Lisbon townhouses and train stations alike. The tradition had its lulls (the 20th century saw a dip in popularity), but a revival came, blending old and new. Artists like Maria Keil in the 1950s even created modernist tile designs for Lisbon’s metro stations, proving azulejos could move with the times.

Today, these tiles are fiercely protected as cultural treasures: Lisbon outlawed demolishing any tile-covered building in 2013. Moreover, contemporary designers are once again embracing azulejo art in creative ways.

Beyond mainland Portugal, the azulejo story extends to its enchanting islands. The Azores and Madeira – remote Atlantic archipelagos that are very much part of Portugal – share in this heritage. When you wander Funchal in Madeira or Ponta Delgada in the Azores, you’ll spot tiles on chapels, homes, even street signs, underscoring a cultural thread uniting these isles with Lisbon and Porto.

Madeira boasts the fantastic Monte Palace Tropical Garden, home to one of Portugal’s most important tile collections outside Lisbon (second only to the National Tile Museum). Strolling its pathways, you’ll encounter tile panels from the 15th through 20th centuries hidden among exotic foliage, a surreal and beautiful collision of nature and art. Meanwhile, on São Miguel Island in the Azores, the 17th-century Igreja de Todos-os-Santos (All Saints Church) in Ponta Delgada wows visitors with its azulejo-clad interior, and the family-run Cerâmica Vieira factory carries on a 150-year-old tradition of hand-painted tiles. This modest workshop (free to visit) still molds and paints each piece by hand, the last of its kind on the island. It’s a living museum where you can watch artisans preserve techniques passed down through five generations. From mainland to islands, azulejos are truly the soul of Portuguese design. Each tile is a piece of a grand narrative – whether celebrating a naval victory, depicting a religious scene, or simply adding beauty to daily life. As we venture to find the most stunning azulejos Portugal offers, keep in mind you’re not just sightseeing – you’re time-traveling through chapters of Portugal’s history lovingly written in cobalt blue on glazed clay.

Are Azulejos Only the Blue Tiles?

You guessed it, the answer is no.

While blue-and-white tiles are the most iconic and widespread, especially from the 17th century onward, azulejos come in a rich variety of colors. Earlier designs, particularly from the Moorish period and early Renaissance, featured greens, yellows, ochres, and even blacks in bold geometric and floral motifs.

The dominance of cobalt blue began in the 1600s, influenced by Chinese porcelain and Dutch Delftware, which were highly fashionable at the time. However, in the 18th and 19th centuries, polychrome tiles made a vibrant comeback—used especially in decorative panels, façades, and Art Nouveau architecture. In Porto and Lisbon alike, you’ll find many buildings adorned with multicolored tiles in earthy reds, vivid greens, and sunny yellows, proving that azulejos are far more than just shades of blue.

Where to Find Portugal’s Most Spectacular Azulejos

From the mainland’s bustling cities to volcanic islands in the Atlantic, Portugal offers endless spots to indulge your azulejo admiration. Here’s a curated list of places that will make any tile-lover’s heart sing:

Lisbon

The capital is an azulejo paradise. Start at the National Azulejo Museum in Lisbon,  a must-see housed in a 16th-century convent, where you can trace tile history and gape at the 23-meter-long Great Lisbon Panorama (a blue-and-white tile mural depicting the city’s pre-1755 skyline)

From there, wander Alfama’s maze-like streets where everyday houses glitter with patterned tiles in yellow, green, and the classic blue. Don’t miss Miradouro de Santa Luzia, a terrace garden whose balustrades and walls are lined with beautiful tiles (including a panel showing the 1640s Siege of Lisbon).

Another highlight is Palácio Fronteira (Fronteira Palace) on the outskirts – its formal gardens are like a tile art gallery en plein air, featuring 17th-century azulejo panels of battles and mythological scenes.

As you roam, keep an eye on smaller details too: tiled street signs, decorative panels on fountain walls, even the Lisbon Metro stations decorated with modern azulejo mosaics – all testify to the city’s living tile tradition.

Porto

Portugal’s second city may well be the azulejo capital in terms of sheer drama. The hall of São Bento Railway Station is guaranteed to drop your jaw. Completed in 1916, its walls are covered with over 20,000 azulejo tiles by artist Jorge Colaço, spanning 550 m² and illustrating Portuguese history from medieval battles to the age of

A few blocks away, the Chapel of Souls (Capela das Almas) stops pedestrians in their tracks – its exterior is wrapped in gigantic tile murals (around 15,000 tiles) portraying scenes from the lives of saints. Nearby, the Igreja de Santo Ildefonso also wears a coat of azulejos – 11,000 tiles added in 1932 adorn its facade with intricate religious imagery.

For a different vibe, pop into Porto Cathedral’s cloisters, where traditional blue tiles meet Gothic architecture in serene courtyards. And all around town, you’ll find surprises: the Igreja do Carmo with its famous side wall mural (perfect for photos), decorative tiles on café fronts, and even contemporary street art mimicking azulejo style on the walls of the Ribeira district.

Porto is a city where historic and modern tiles coexist, so take time to simply wander and let the blue patterns guide you from one discovery to the next.

Azulejos in Portugal’s Central & Northern Towns

Beyond the big cities, many smaller locales hide tile gems. Aveiro, a canal-laced town often called the “Venice of Portugal,” boasts the Old Aveiro Railway Station as its azulejo icon.

This charming white building is clad in large blue panels depicting regional scenes – moliceiro boats in the lagoon, farmers in fields – essentially a painted postcard of Aveiro’s life in tile. It’s a free, open-air gallery you can enjoy any time (the station’s new terminal is separate, leaving the historic tiled one in all its glory).

In the Douro Valley, the Pinhão Train Station is another pilgrimage site for azulejo lovers: 24 panels of blue tiles (dating to 1937) decorate the station, illustrating the wine harvest and vineyard landscapes of the Douro – a delightful tableau to admire while waiting for your train or boat ride. If you venture to Coimbra, check out the Buçaco Palace (now a hotel) and some old university buildings for ornate tilework blending with Romantic architecture.

And in Évora or Santarém, step into almost any historic church to find azulejo-clad chapels (the Igreja de Santa Maria de Marvila in Santarém, for instance, has an interior patchwork of 17th-century tile patterns from floor to ceiling).

The Algarve

Portugal’s sunny southern coast has a shining azulejo treasure in the small town of Almancil. There lies the Church of São Lourenço, an unassuming white Baroque chapel that reveals an astonishing interior: every inch inside is covered in blue-and-white tiles, created in 1730 to depict the life of St. Lawrence.  The walls, vaults, even the curved dome – all are an immersive azulejo masterpiece (with only the gilded altar as contrast). It’s arguably the Algarve’s most beautiful church and often near-empty, giving you a quiet, contemplative space to admire tile art at its finest.

Elsewhere in the Algarve, look for azulejos in old town Faro (on municipal buildings and archways) or the decorative panels on houses in towns like Tavira and Lagos – they tend to be polychrome (multi-colored) tiles reflecting 19th-century tastes. The region’s strong sunlight makes the tile colors even more vibrant against the whitewashed buildings, so photographers will be in heaven here.

Azores

The lush Azores islands have embraced azulejos in their own way, often to pay tribute to local culture. In Ponta Delgada (São Miguel Island), as mentioned, the Igreja de Todos-os-Santos (Jesuit College Church) is known for its stunning painted tile panels in the chancel and chapels. Upon visiting, you will discover a striking sight set against the volcanic stone architecture.

Stroll through Ponta Delgada and you’ll notice many public benches and building facades decorated with azulejo patterns, some depicting ships and sea motifs (a nod to the islands’ seafaring history).

One unique experience here is visiting the Cerâmica Vieira in Lagoa, São Miguel. This is the Azores’ oldest tile and pottery workshop, dating to 1862, where you can watch artisans hand-painting tiles using traditional methods.

The workshop’s showroom is full of beautiful tiles you can buy as authentic souvenirs – from house number plaques to classic patterned pieces – knowing they were crafted right on the island.

Don’t leave São Miguel without also spotting the tiled street signs in older quarters – even these small details carry the azulejo legacy.

Other Azorean islands, like Terceira or Faial, have tiles adorning their churches and impérios (little chapels), so keep your eyes peeled for flashes of blue on white wherever you go.

Madeira

This subtropical island is a surprise contender for tile enthusiasts. Funchal, Madeira’s capital, has charming examples like the Ritz Café, a circa-1905 cafe whose walls feature vintage azulejo panels depicting idyllic Madeiran life (imagine elegant ladies in old-fashioned garb amid vineyards, all in blue and white).

For a comprehensive tile experience, head up to the Monte Palace Tropical Garden in Funchal. Amid exotic plants and koi ponds, you’ll find an outdoor tile gallery featuring over 300 azulejo panels! These include rare Moorish tiles from the 15th-16th centuries and Portuguese panels from the XVI through XX centuries, collected by José Berardo, the garden’s founder.

As you wander, you’ll encounter tiles portraying everything from royal coats-of-arms to scenes of daily life, each labeled with its origin. It’s an unexpected tile museum in the wild – peacocks strut by as you examine a eighteenth-century azulejo of a Portuguese ship at sail!

Also visit Funchal’s Sé Cathedral and older churches – many have azulejo embellishments inside. Even the sidewalks in Madeira sometimes use mosaic tiles (a cousin of azulejos) in decorative patterns. By exploring Madeira, you truly appreciate how Portugal’s tile tradition extends beyond the continent, connecting the island to the mainland culturally and historically.

How to Photograph Portugal’s Azulejos

Part of the thrill of an azulejo hunt is photographing these dazzling tiles. But how do you do them justice? Here’s a plan for making the best photos of Portugal’s tile masterpieces:

• Play with Light and Angles: Azulejos can be glossy, so timing and positioning are key. Shoot facades in soft morning or late afternoon light to avoid harsh glare bouncing off the glaze. If the sun is high, try a polarizing filter (or polarized sunglasses over your phone lens in a pinch) to cut reflections. For interior shots (like church walls or São Bento station’s atrium), late morning provides ample light to illuminate details – just remember many churches close at lunchtime. Take your time to find interesting angles: shoot straight on for symmetrical patterns, then from a low angle or side to emphasize a long tiled wall receding into the distance.
• Focus on Details and Context: The sheer detail on azulejos is incredible up close – zoom in on a single tile or a small section to capture the brushstrokes and cracks of century-old glaze. These make for gorgeous abstract shots or texture backgrounds. Conversely, step back to capture the big picture: show an entire tiled facade in frame, perhaps including a bit of the street or a passerby for scale. A wide shot of Porto’s São Bento station hall, for example, can capture its sweeping 20,000-tile panorama alongside tiny figures of commuters – highlighting how monumental the artwork is.

• Include People or Props: Don’t shy away from having a person in your azulejo shots, as it can add story and virality. A well-placed subject (even if it’s just you in a colorful outfit) standing against a tile wall provides contrast and a human element. In Lisbon’s Alfama, you might snap a local resident framed by a tiled doorway, or in Porto catch travelers marveling at the station tiles. These candid moments of people interacting with the art make your photos more relatable and shareable.

• Seek Symmetry and Patterns: Azulejo artists often designed with symmetry and repetition. Use that to your advantage by aligning your camera dead-center on a pattern for a satisfying mirror effect. Many azulejo murals also have strong leading lines (rows of tiles, borders, etc.) – incorporate those to lead the viewer’s eye across the image. For example, the tiled benches at Lisbon’s Miradouro de Santa Luzia form neat lines that can frame the scene of the city beyond. Look for doors or windows amid tiles to add focal points that break the repetition in pleasing ways.
• Mind the Crowds and Composition: Popular azulejo sites can be busy. If you’re aiming for that perfect Instagram shot of Porto’s Capela das Almas (Chapel of Souls) or Lisbon’s tiled Bairro Alto streets, go early before the crowds, or be patient for gaps. When photographing expansive panels like the Aveiro train station facade or a long azulejo-clad hall, a trick is to wait for a lone figure to walk by (for scale) or no one at all (for an undisturbed view) – either can work. Lastly, compose creatively: use arches or doorways to frame tiles within tiles, or capture the tile reflection in a puddle after rain for an artistic twist.

Conclusion: How to Make the Most of Your Trip Chasing Azulejos

To truly savor Portugal’s azulejo heritage, slow down and look up. Wander without a strict plan, especially in old neighborhoods like Lisbon’s Alfama or Porto’s Bonfim, where hidden tile treasures are often just around the corner. Start your day early to catch the best light, and don’t forget to step inside churches, train stations, and tucked-away courtyards, as some of the most beautiful azulejos are hidden in plain sight.

Consider pairing your tile-hunting with local experiences: sip espresso on a tiled terrace, take a workshop to paint your own azulejo, or chat with artisans in small studios. Whether you’re riding the tram past tiled buildings or discovering a seaside chapel in Madeira, let the tiles guide your journey. Take them as precious stories you can walk through, photograph, and remember long after your trip ends.